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Translation
İznik: A history of ceramics in Turkey
The city of İznik has so great an historic and cultural
value that if you try to write it all down its history would
run to many volumes.
The first capital city of Anatolia, it was originally
described as a city of scholars. However much we speak of
İznik -- historically, culturally, artistically,
theologically, naturally -- many of its tales will still
remains to be told. This city has many assets: green lawns,
olive groves, grapes, perfect olives, a lake, a grassy
plain, mountains and ancient architecture.
İznik also describes a style of porcelain. The culture of
painted china in İznik started 600 years ago during the rule
of the Ottomans and lasted until the end of their rule. In
the centre of İznik you can see the Ayasofya Mosque and the
remains of a glorious Roman theatre.
İznik is set in a valley between two mountains and the road
which runs parallel with Lake İznik, flanked by olive groves
on both sides, takes us there. At the city entrance I see a
sign reading “Nikaia-İznik.” After winning the war against
Antigoneia and conquering the region, Lysimachus from
İskender gave the city his beloved wife’s name in tribute to
her. When Nikaia -- or Nicea -- became the capital city of
the Seljuk State, Shah Suleiman changed its name to İznik.
Every historical place and story in İznik has its own
mythological tale.
The entrance to İznik has four main gates; we enter the gate
that faces İstanbul. These gates were made with the purpose
of protecting the city and were set in massive city walls.
Behind these gates, life continues. It is stunning that even
in this part of the year the land is green, only from the
cold can we be sure that it is winter.
İznik is now almost synonymous with the ceramics that were
made here. The culture of faience, or glazed, colored china,
began in İznik 600 years ago during the Ottoman era and
continued until the end of their rule. The term “china”
comes from Chinese porcelain. The best porcelain of the
time, used at the palace, came from China. Since it was so
expensive and the conditions of its transportation so
difficult, the sultan ordered its domestic manufacture. They
began to try to produce the same white porcelain that was
made in China. However the result was not porcelain but
İznik china, which, according to contemporary ceramics
chemistry and literature, was impossible to produce.
When you start your tour from the centre of İznik you come
upon many historical remains. In the centre of İznik sits
the Ayasofya Mosque, which is at the crossroads where the
roads from all four gates cross. It is where Emperor
Constantine called the first gathering of Christian
theologians and scholars, hence the Nicene Creed, and is
thus considered of great importance to Christians. It is
also the place where the Ottomans, after taking military
control over İznik, performed the first Friday prayer. You
have to visit to see and feel these spiritual values. It is
also possible to see the remains of the glorious Roman
theatre.
Next we go to the china workshops, where one is free to look
without being obliged to buy anything. These fill a whole
street and we choose to tour at the china workshop at the
Suleiman Pasha Medrese. The ceramics that became identified
with this historical place fit its atmosphere perfectly. It
is satisfying to sit in one of the medrese’s tea gardens,
sip tea at a tiled table, watch İznik and feel the history
beneath your feet.
How to get there?
Leaving İstanbul behind and taking the Eskihisar ferry is
the fastest and most practical way to go to İznik. The ferry
trip takes 40 minutes. After you come to Yalova, you take
the road to Orhangazi, and from there following the İznik
sign, head toward İznik Lake. The historic city is just
two-ad-a-half- hours from İstanbul.
Where to stay?
There are not many alternatives for those who plan to stay
overnight. You can stay at a few hotels at İznik city center.
The Çamlık Hotel on the lake’s coastal road is reasonable.
Tel: (0224) 757 13 62
04.04.2007
GÜLİZ KARAOĞLAN İZNİK
http://www.todayszaman.com/tz-web/detaylar.do?load=detay&link=107300
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